In a Crocodile Nest

Last week we went on an outing from Isla Mujeres—to CrocoCun, a reptile reserve a half-hour south of Cancun. We’ve passed it several times on our travels in the Maya Riviera, but never thought of stopping. Luckily, Erick Lara, who works in our Nautibeach Condos office, and his girlfriend Ana used to be guides at CrocoCun, and Erick invited us for a complimentary private tour. We’re glad we took him up on the offer!

CrocoCun is set in a lush jungle, with walking paths laid out among the animals’ enclosures. After Erick and Ana were greeted warmly by the staff, a gorgeous Green Military Macaw seemed to recognize them too. After kissing Becky, she accepted a peanut from Erick, cracked the shell, delicately tongued out the nut, rolled it around in her mouth to remove the papery covering, spit out the skin, and finally swallowed the meat!

Nearby, a stunning Mexican Yellow-headed Parrot watched the peanut maneuver, called out his name, “Lorenzo!” and received his own peanut. Erick told us that the Yellow-headed Parrot can learn 50-60 words, more than any other species except for the African Gray Parrot. Because it is so prized as a pet, poachers cut down the jungle to reach the nests, and this beautiful parrot is on the verge of extinction.

Crocodiles, on the other hand, are plentiful both in the wild and at CrocoCun, from small, limber 3 or 4-year olds to huge lumbering adults. We were allowed to hold one of the youngsters and were surprised at its soft belly. Nothing attacks a croc from under the water, only from above, and its boney, spiny back provides ample protection. Ana had no such protection 3 years ago when, distracted by a school boy in her tour group, she didn’t notice the crocodile reach for her hand. While she went off for 17 stiches and staples, the sobbing child was consoled by his teacher and classmates.

We walked through an enclosed area with about 30 crocodiles behind a foot-high stone wall. This may be the only place in the world where people can walk among crocodiles, which, when provoked, move with the speed of a horse! Erick pointed out the alpha crocodile, alone in the pond. The others stay on land. One male was lounging on the shore with his tail and back legs in the water. We guessed he could scamper away if her highness became displeased by his semi-trespassing in her pond. [Photo by Eric Lara -- he was INSIDE the little wall]

Erick’s favorite reptile is the snake. He cares for 14 snakes in the Cancun home he shares with his mom and sister. Cancun in Maya means snake (Can) nest (Cun). The Yucatan is second in the Americas in its number of snakes, with Costa Rica and Belize sharing the number one spot. Erick handed us a native boa constrictor, which gripped our hands and arm is a strong hug. Its skin was shiny and very soft. After holding the small boa, we were shocked to encounter a rare 12-foot yellow albino python with pinkish eyes . . . thankfully in a cage.

Occasionally a spider monkey would come close for a visit or peer curiously down from the trees. The name comes from the ability to use its prehensile tail to hang from trees while keeping its arms and legs free. Several females had babies clinging to their backs or stomachs. While the babies scampered up the tree trunk, the adults came down for the chunks of grapes we held out, prying open our fingers to reach the fruit.

The oddest animal we saw was not the albino python nor a strange-looking soft-shelled turtle, but Xoloitzcuintle, a rare hairless dog that has been in Mexico for 3,000 years. CrocoCun’s two xolos greeted Erick and Ana like long-lost friends and freely let us stroke their silky bodies. They radiated heat, as their natural body temperature is several degrees higher than other dogs. In ancient times, Xolos were considered sacred . . and also popular in chilly regions of Mexico, not only because of their gentle disposition, but because they helped keep the family warm at night. Eric says that today one Xolo dog can cost $4000.

Thank you to Erick and Ana for a fun and educational morning! For more information, visit http://www.crococunzoo.com/.

Becky and Nancy