In the Remote Bush

Chilo Gorge Camp, Gonerazou National Park, Zimbabwe, November 7, 2012

Gonerazou National Park is second only to Hwange National Park in size. It is tucked in the southeastern corner of Zimbabwe and is part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park that encompasses Kruger National Park in South Africa and Limpopo National Park in Mozambique. This vast territory allows animals free range across the borders of all three countries.

Nancy on the veranda of our room at Chilo Gorge Camp overlooking the river

Gonerazou ("elephant tusk" in Shona) is off the beaten track so it doesn't get nearly as many visitors as Hwange. An  hour's hot, dusty ride on a pot-holed dirt road through the bush brought us to Chilo Gorge Camp. It is a gorgeous lodge perched above the Save River, where hippos loll the day away in the water...and snort and heave and make a racket during the night.



View of Save River and Gonarezhou National Park from our room at Chilo Gorge Camp

Chilo Gorge Camp is the most difficult to reach of the places we have stayed, but the pain is worth it. The accomodations and meals are exquisite. We would like to stay a whole week instead of just two nights. (Well, that goes for every place we have stayed!)


Hippos surfacing

The game drives feel different. When a Cape buffalo charges our Land Rover, it is clear that we are part of the food chain. The animals aren't used to vehicles or people, and they often bolt in fright. We feel uncomfortable at the disruption we are causing in their lives. They need their energy to run from real predators.


Warthogs scampering from our Land Rover

The birding here is supurb. There are 900 species of birds in Zimbabwe and 448 of them are found in the Southeast Lowlands. Pinched for time, we take a guided 45-minute 5:30 a.m. bird walk before we depart. We spot 18 birds, 11 new to us. Zimbabwe, like Costa Rica, is a birder's paradise!



A tree of bee-eaters

Broad-billed rollers in front of our balcony at Chilo Gorge Camp, Zimbabwe