Ruins of River Rock

After years of exploring the archeological sites of the ancient Maya, we paused on our drive back to Minneapolis to explore two ruins outside the Yucatan. North of Veracruz at Cempoala (also spelled Zempoala), the Totonac people built their pyramids and other structures out of river stones. Our eyes are so used to the block stone of the Maya, it was rather shocking to walk into the site. The dark stones are smooth and carefully placed in rows, joined by mortar that still holds up after all these centuries.

Cempoala means “the place of the 20 rivers” because rivers converge near the site. Most of the buildings date from the 14th and 15th centuries. The site was occupied much earlier, though, probably by the Olmecs some two millennia ago.

The unusual circular structures may have had astrological significance. One architectural motif is the step pillar, a chair-like stone structure on many of the ruins, including the outer walls. All the buildings are accessible, and Nancy sat on one of these "chairs" as though it were part of a carousal ride.

Cempoala was the first New World city that Cortez ran into. Its 30,000 people were under subjugation to the Aztecs in what is now Mexico City. Seeing an opportunity to throw off their oppressors, they joined forces with Cortez to help bring down the Aztec empire. They ended up helping the Spanish destroy their own culture.

Cempoala is lovely and quiet. No vendors hawk wares, and the summer-like breeze and lovely palm trees dot the spacious areas between the amazing buildings.

As we left the town, we realized that even the speed bumps were shaped like step pillars.

These were the only speed bumps in our 4000 plus miles of driving in Mexico that gave us pleasure!

Becky