Out in Africa, Part One

Zimabwe, October 23, 2012

"Cecil John Rhodes and Leander Starr Jameson were partners. They were both gay," says Howard, our black Zimbabwean guide. Our assistant group leader Kelly crouches down to read the inscription.

Howard has led us on a steep, windy climb in Matopo Hills National Park to "View of the World," which the founder of Rhodesia, now called Zimbabwe, chose as his final resting place.

The view is impressive. Granite outcroppings with huge circular rocks and upright rectangular blocks perched precariously on top stretch to the horizon in all directions. No one has a good explanation of how these balancing rocks came to be, and they are one reason the Matopo Hills have been declared a  UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Despite Howard's nonchalance about his nation’s founder being gay, Becky and I are careful not to be too out in Africa. Homosexual acts in Zimbabwe are a criminal offence punishable by death.

 Within minutes of arriving in Africa a week earlier, however, we presented our passports to a South African immigration officer, who asked, "Are you two sisters?" Since South Africa’s constitution bans discrimination based on sexual orientation and since same-sex marriage has been legal in South Africa for six years, we took a deep breath and said, "No, we are married. To each other."

"Really?" she smiled. She knocked on the glass partition and called to the next immigration officer, "THESE LADIES ARE MARRIED TO EACH OTHER!" He nodded and flashed a smile.

“Welcome to South Africa!" she said, stamping our passports. "Next!"

Four days later, when we entered Zimbabwe, the immigration officer did not ask if we were sisters. Thank goodness.

Now, standing beside the grave of Cecil Rhodes, I reflect on the irony of a homosexual having founded a country with such violently homophobic laws. Why does Zimbabwe have such a different approach than South Africa? Is it their leadership? Charismatic Nelson Mandela, the first black president of South Africa, was committed to equality, non-violence, and forgiveness. Tyrannical Robert Mugabe, the first (and current) black president of Zimbabwe, seems committed to self-aggrandizement, ruthless power, and retaliation.

My musings are interrupted by the discovery of a grasshopper next to Rhode's grave. Here in Africa, even insects seem more colorful, like the birds!

Nancy Manahan